27 January 2009

Cape Town and Farewell to South Africa

Hi guys! I’m currently in Namibia, where my friends Pierre and Frank have joined me, and we’re traveling in a 4x4. I’ll share some pictures soon! For now, I’ll tell you about Cape Town and South Africa, which I left about 10 days ago. Cape Town is an amazing, vibrant, and sunny city, and I left it reluctantly, just like South Africa as a whole.

I’d like to briefly share my impressions of South Africans, as much as possible without falling into clichés. I have to say from the start that I’m forced to divide them into “white” and “black,” which in itself shows how strong the issue of racial division still is. It would feel absurd, for example, to talk about New Yorkers or Londoners by separating them based on skin color, but here it’s impossible not to notice that, in general, there is still too much difference between the two groups.

White South Africans, as I already mentioned, are incredibly hospitable. They never leave you on your own and are always eager to talk and to listen. They’re extremely proud of South Africa, especially its natural beauty. However, it’s easy to notice that they sometimes slip into racist remarks, often framed in terms of “culture” or “tradition,” and so on. But to be honest, I think this kind of thing happens everywhere in the world when people talk.
Moreover, even those who expressed some racist thoughts always behaved in a genuinely kind and friendly way towards Black people, at least in my presence. I think it’s just a matter of time. Hopefully, things will already be different in the next generation. In fact, one young white guy I met complained about the ignorance and closed-mindedness of older people when it comes to racism. In the end, it mostly comes down to the kind of education people receive.

Regarding Black South Africans, I believe there is still a lot of resentment towards white people, and it would be strange if it weren’t the case. We are not talking about events that happened 100 or even 50 years ago, but only about twenty.
The brutality and atrocities committed under apartheid are beyond description, and it is not easy to simply pretend that nothing happened. White individuals or movements that fought against apartheid were relatively few and had limited impact (although there were also white anti-apartheid activists who were arrested, persecuted, and some who died in prison or during protests). Apartheid was maintained through a brutal police state and by the usual supporters of any system: the small but widespread willingness to collaborate and the tendency of the majority to look the other way.
Oppressors, as in all such cases, would not have given up even a fraction of their power if they had not been forced to do so by the determined struggle of Black South Africans and, eventually, though quite late, by international economic pressure and boycotts.
It takes enormous moral strength, like that of Nelson Mandela, to move on from such a history and forgive so much so quickly. On top of that, widespread poverty, especially among Black communities, helps explain why in cities white people are often targets of petty crime.
In short, there is still an open wound, but I believe it will heal slowly over time. In coastal villages, where the atmosphere feels more relaxed, it already seems like something of the past. it should also be noted that almost all the workforce is Black, while most property owners are white. In other words, there are still many inequalities and challenges that need to be addressed.

At the hostel, I ran into some friends I had met earlier in the trip again, including the German guy. He had been in Malawi and Tanzania in the meantime.

As I mentioned, I’m currently in Namibia, which I reached after a 21-hour journey! I’ll talk about that in my next post.


Cape Town.


On Table Mountain.


Little shop.


All summer, from the afternoon onward, something very strange happens: a cloud forms on the mountain, but mysteriously, it never seems to move. No matter how far it drifts, it always stays the same size.
For a long time, people thought it was some kind of scientific effect caused by hot and cold air mixing between the two sides of the mountain. But then the truth came out: it’s smoke.
Centuries ago, a pirate who roamed these parts challenged the devil to a pipe-smoking contest. That contest is still going on, and the outcome is uncertain. At stake is the soul. And that is indeed the “Devil’s Peak”.

Bus.


Road.


A ship in the harbor.


One of the many beaches.


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